Seam



April 18, 1933.

C. W. M U ELLER SEAM Filed May 6, 1932 w. .WH w MOM. W m Nm Patented Apr. 18, 1933 UNITED srArEs PATENTv OFFICE CHARLES W. MUELLER, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOB 1`0 LEWIS INVISIBLE STITCH MACHINE COMPANY, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION' OF MAINE SEAM Application med my e,

This invention relates to new and useful improvementsin seams generally, although more particularly to a hem which is Joined to the body fabric by a line of machine made blind stitches which are laid in a manner to simulate hand made whip stitches.

Heretofore, hems have been stitched by a line of single thread blind stitches wherein all of the needle thread loops have entered and emerged from the upper face of the body fabric and have thence projected upwardly through the hem fold, the loops then being laid against the outer face of the'hem fold in planes diagonal to the general l1ne of the hem, the bights of the loops as well as the connecting portions of the thread between adjacent loops being located along sidethe 1nner edge of the hem, the loops thus Simulating hand made whip stitches. By reason of all the needle thread loops being anchored to the body fabric, a. puckering and wavy leffect is given to hems, and this efiect is undesirable particularly in narrow hems Whlch are formed along the bottom of skirts. Furthermore, should it be desired to ravel the line of stitches for, the purpose of removing or reforming the hem the needle punctures which remain in the fabric are necessarily unsightly.

Among the several objects of the invention are to provide a hem seam wherein the needle thread loops are positioned against the outer face of the hem `and lie in planes diagonal to the general line of the hem, the bights of the loops extending under the inneredge portion of the hem and the connecting stitch port-ions between the loops being also disposed under the inner edge portion of the hem; to provide' a hem seam of the character described wherein alternate needle thread loops enter and emerge from the upper face of the body fabric below the hem and also penetrate upwardly through the hem, the remaining needle thread loops penetrating upwardly through the hem only,

thereby avoiding the puckering effect which would otherwise occur particularly When hems o'f very narrow width are being formed; and to provide such a hem seam from a single thread chain stitch whereby the alternate en- 1932. Serial No. 609,720.

the body fabric and thereby render the same less unsightly should the hem be opened.

With these and other obj ects in view which will more fully appear, the nature of the invention will be more clearly understood by following the description, the appended claims, and the several views illustrated in the accompanying drawing.

In the drawingz- Figure 1 is an enlarged plan view of the hem seam constructed in accordance with my invention,

Figure 2 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line 2-2 of Figure 1, the view bein more or less diagrammatically displayed, an F igure 3 is a similar view but taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 1.

Like reference numerals designate corresponding parts throughout the several figures of the drawing.

Referring to the accompanying drawing,

A designates a body fabric having a hem B extending along one edge thereof, the latter including a hem fold 5 and an inturned edge portion 6. In forming this seam, I preferably employ a single thread machine-made chain stitch as illustrated in the drawing. The thread 7 is formed into a series of alternate needle thread loops Sand 9 which are equally spaced apart. Each needle thread loop 9 is projected through the previously formed needle thread loop 8 and thence upwardly through the portions 5, 6 of the hem, the needle thread loop 9 thence being laid against the outer face of the hem 5 and the bight 9n being iosition'ed, under the inner edge portion o the hem so as to be concealed from view. `The next adjacent needle thread loop 8 enters and emerges from the upper face of the body fabric at a point under the hem and is then projected upwardly through the `hem portions 5, 6, the needle thread loop 9 then being positioned against the outer face of the hem fold 5 and the bight 9a thereof being disposed under the inner edge portion of the hem so as to be concealed from view, the tween the loops being also locatedunder said i connecting portions between adjacent neehem and in spaced relation to the inner edge dle thread loops 8,'9 extending lengthwlse of thereof.

In ,testimory' the hem and being also disposed under the inner edge portion thereof so as to be also coneealed from view.

- From the foregoing, it will be observed i that the needle thread loops 8, 9 on the outer surface of the hem are disposed in planes diagonal to the general direction of the hem; that the needle thread loops have their bights located under the inner edge portion of the o V hem; that the connecting portions between tleeneedle thread loops are likewise disposed under the inner edge portion of vthe hem; that the alternate needle thread loops engage the body fabric to anchor the hem thereto, and that the remaining needle thread loops do not engage the body fabric but pass upwardly through the hem fold, thereby not o only eliminating the puckering efi'ect which would otherwise occur in the construction of narrow hems but also permitting the rapid raveling of the hem as well as a reduction in 4 the needle openings in the fabric.

Iclaimz- 1. A seam for sewed articles, comprising a body fabric having a hem along one edge thereof and folded to lie against the upper 7 face of said body fabric, and a single row of connected stitches entering and emerging from the same side of the fabric comprising a series of equally spaced and connected needle thread loops penetrating upwardly through the hem at pomts spaced from the inner edge thereof, alternate loops 'only entering and emerging from the upper face of the body fabric below the hem, the loops being positioned against the upper face' of the hem and extending from the points of penetration to the inner edge of the hem and lying in paralw lel planes diagonal to the general line of the 2. A seani for sewed articles, comprisin a bodyfabric having a hem along one ge thereof and vfolded to lie against the upper face of said body fabric, and a single row of single thread chain stitches entering. and emerging from the same side of the fabric comprising a series of lequally spaced and connected needle thread loops penetrating upwardly through the hem at points spaced o i from the inner edge thereof, alternate loops only entering and emerging from the upper face of the body fabric below the hem, the loops being positioned against the upper face of the hem and extending from the points of penetration to the inner edge 'of the hem and lying in parallel planes diagonal to the 'general line of thehem, the bights of said loops extending' around the inner edge portion of 'the hem and terminating under said hem in spaced relation to the inner edge thereof, and

v the connecting portions of the thread bewhereof afiix my signature. HRLES W. MUELLER.

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